Architecture
THE KREMLIN
A Kremlin is an essential part of any ancient Russian city. Originally it was the heart of the settlement, which defined the silhouette and layout of the city. The Kremlin (or Detinets, as it was sometimes called in the older times) was an administrative, social and religious centre. This is where veche gathered, elections were held, books were collected and copied, and events were recorded in the chronicles. The Kremlin walls protected the major cathedral of the city — St. Sophia Cathedral — and the residence of the Archbishop of Novgorod.
You start seeing the red brick walls and towers of the fortress while standing near Gorodische (the old abandoned settlement). Amazingly attractive in any weather, the Kremlin seems to soar above the modern buildings. Its looks and the sound of the bells ringing, which carries many miles away along the river, give the impression of a fairy-tale castle rising from the water. As you get closer, details become visible.
Through the Kremlin goes a road leading to the pedestrian bridge which connects the Sophiyskaya and Torgovaya sides of the city, just like in the medieval times. From the eastern arch you can see Yaroslav Courtyard and St. Anthony monastery, and if the weather is sunny — Rurik's Gorodische and the golden spark of the bell-tower of the St. George monastery as well. One of the Kremlin towers, called Kokuy (derived from the Dutch word «koke» — «to look») is 34 meters high and offers an incomparable view over the city and its neighborhood. The city's southern outskirts remained almost untouched by time — the Volkhov river is taking its waters from the Ilmen Lake just as a thousand years ago, and its canals are washing over the multiple grassy islands. Varangians called this place Holmgart, which means «land of islands», for a good reason.
Today the Kremlin is the cultural and tourist centre of the city. Inside its walls there are main expositions of the museum, restoration workshops, public library, philharmonic concert hall, college of music and arts, art school, restaurant and souvenir shops. A walk within the Kremlin walls and in the park around it takes about 2 hours and leaves you full of wonderful, exciting impressions.
YAROSLAV'S COURTYARD
The division of the city into the Sophia and Trade sides remained from the ancient times until today. The Kremlin was the center of the Sophia side, and the Trade side was concentrated around the Marketplace and the prince's courtyard, which Prince Yaroslav the Wise had moved here from Rurik's Gorodische in the early 11th c.
According to the Swedish chronicler Bilemark, the palace of Prince Yaroslav could outshine any other royal palace in the North. Here the king of Norway Olaf and the children of British king Edmund found their refuge, and Norwegian prince Gerald was brought up. Unfortunately, so far no remains of this palace were found yet.
The Great Bridge connected Yaroslav's Courtyard and the Kremlin across the Volkhov river, and at its foot the Marketplace spread. A long line of jetties went along the bank, receiving boats from close-by and far-away places, some of them bringing in and others taking away goods of a great variety. Shops were assembled into rows which in the 16th c. numbered 42 - bread, fish, leather, silver, icon, wax rows and many others. Foreign «guest courts» were located nearby, the major ones being Goth and German.
The territory between the prince's courtyard and the marketplace was supposedly occupied by the veche square. The archaeologists debate whether veche gathered here or near St. Sophia cathedral, and both opinions get some confirmation from the materials found in the excavations.
In either case, the Courtyard and the Marketplace played such an important role in the city's social life that citizens decorated them continuously. As the old saying goes, «churches here grow like trees». Well, no wonder that churches were built here in such numbers - this was the traditional way of rich merchants both to perform their Christian duty and fulfill their social obligations. Besides, the strong basement rooms of the churches served as safe storages for the goods and money.
Today it is one of the prettiest sites in Novgorod. Lilac bushes cast shadows on the alleys, unexpected flowerbeds delight one with the variety and fine arrangement of flowers, and the gorgeous panoramic view over the Volkhov river and the Kremlin attract tourists.
Monasteries
According to the tradition, the first monastery in Novgorod was founded in the beginning of the 11th century, during the reign of Prince Yaroslav the Wise. Surviving documents recount that by the 12th century Novgorod was already surrounded by a thick belt of large and small monasteries. In the southern outskirts alone there were over ten of them.
Scantily populated monasteries, such as Petrovsky convent, which was founded by the folks of Lukinskaya street at the very end of the 12th c., had neither large possessions, nor estates, and depended on the «land, harvest and doles». Extensive monasteries (St. George and Khoutynsky), on the other hand, were flourishing under the high protection by princes, boyar families and Archbishops of Novgorod. One of the known grant letters was given by Prince Mstislav to St. George monastery and certified that a large amount of lands, a number of villages and other properties were bestowed on the monastery in a permanent possession.
In the Middle Ages, monasteries became the outposts of the city. They received the first attack of the enemies and were burned down and looted more than once. They suffered an especially hard fate in 1386, during the campaign of the Moscow Prince Dmitry Donskoy against Novgorod, and in 1611, at the time of Swedish invasion.
In Novgorodian monasteries were created many outstanding examples of icon-painting (such as «St. George» and «Ustyuzhanskoye Annunciation»), jeweler's and applied arts (several altar Gospels in silver covers), gold embroidery (vestments of clergymen), and books.
Most monasteries were abolished by Catherine the Great in the 18th c., their cathedrals turned into the parish and cemetery churches. Only a few most ancient and important monasteries retained their place in the religious life of Novgorod and all of Russia.
After the revolution in October, 1917, all monasteries in the city and around it were closed, and the buildings themselves were used as colonies, hospitals, old people's homes, and dormitories.
terrible destructions. Remains of Khoutynsky and Vyazhischsky monasteries were used by movie producers as authentic ruin scenery as recently as 20 years ago. Heroic efforts of the restorers turned those ruins into quite good-looking monastery complexes.
The reforms of the «perestroika» epoch changed the state policy concerning the church. Some of the monasteries in various Russian cities, including Novgorod, started a second life. Today around Novgorod there are three fully-functioning monasteries - Vyazhischsky, Khoutynsky, and St. George together with Peryn nunnery, and the fourth one, Iversky, is re-opened near Valday.
ST. ANTHONY MONASTERY
St. Anthony monastery is one of the most picturesque places in Novgorod. According to the improbable, but beautiful legend, the monastery was founded in 1106 by Anthony the Roman. Supposedly, he was born in a rich family in Rome, in 1067. At the age of 18 he became a monk and put all his possessions in gold and silver into a barrel and threw it in the sea. Then, 20 years later, he was sitting on a rock, meditating and praying for the sake of universal Orthodoxy. Suddenly, a storm fell, and the rock under Anthony's feet dropped into the sea. It did not sink, but instead floated and carried the monk away. After two days of sailing, on the day of celebration of the holiday of Nativity of Our Lady, Anthony climbed ashore near Novgorod, and the monastery was founded on this very site. Some years later, fishermen caught the barrel with Anthony's treasure. The money was enough to buy the piece of land and build a stone church.
Today the restored cathedral of the Nativity of Our Lady is open for visitors from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. in summer and from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. in winter. Monday and last Wednesday of a month are days off.
NIKOLO-VYAZHISCHSKY MONASTERY
Nikolo-Vyazhischsky monastery (named after St. Nicolas and the village of Vyazhischi) was first mentioned by a chronicler, in a recording dated 1391, and soon it was already one of the richest monasteries in Novgorod area. Archbishop of Novgorod Evfimiy II was a monk here in his younger days, and later, when occupying the high post, rendered his patronage to the monastery and supported the construction of new churches on its territory. In the 17th century, most buildings were altered and reconstructed completely.
Today the monastery is restored and returned to the Eparchy of Novgorod as a convent. It charms the onlooker from the very first glance by its elegant green domes, multicoloured glazed tiles and overall lightness and refinement. It looks exactly like one of those fairy-tale castles or enchanted city.
You can visit it daily, from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. Please be considerate and wear long clothes and cover your head.
DESYATINNIY MONASTERY
The name of Desyatinniy monastery derives from the word «desyatina» - a piece of land belonging to a prince. The monastery occupies a strategic place as a defense post, next to the ground rampart, and is known since 1327. First the church of the Nativity of Our Lady and the church of Ioann the Precursor were built, then were added the cells, a refectory, a chapel, domestic constructions, and finally, the gate belfry, which is the very recognizable "face" of the monastery today.
The Exhibitions and workshops are open daily, from 10 a.m. to 5.30 p.m., except Monday.
MONASTERY OF THE HOLY SPIRIT
Not much is known of the monastery's history. The chronicles first mention it in 1162, then it was burned down in 1386, when the troops of Dmitry Donskoy attacked the city. It was a custom of that time to burn the monasteries in advance, so that the enemy got neither quartering nor board. In the end of the 16th c. three stone churches - Holy Spirit, Holy Trinity and St. Nicolas - were among the monastery's buildings. By the end of the 18th c. the monastery was abolished, all monks transferred to the Valaam island, and the monastery of the Holy Spirit soon re-opened as a nunnery. Till our days survived only two constructions - the stone church of the Descend of the Holy Spirit and the Refectory by the church of the Holy Trinity. The abundance of decorations and scaly wooden domes looking festive on their tall narrow drums make these buildings noticeably different from the rest of Novgorodian churches.
Both buildings are not plastered, and you can admire the intricate brickwork of the walls.
VARLAAMO-KHOUTYNSKY MONASTERY
In fact, the full name of the monastery is even longer - Varlaamo-Khoutynsky Spaso-Preobrazhensky, which means St. Varlaam Monastery of the Transfiguration of Our Saviour in the village of Khoutyn. St. Varlaam, just like St. Anthony, was born in a rich, aristocratic family, but left the world and became a hermit. He chose a place near the Khoutyn village, which was quite infamous among the locals. However, Varlaam employed his faith and the power of his spirit and defeated the evil influence. The monks founded the cathedral of the Transfiguration of Our Savious and the monastery. St. Varlaam was respected both while alive and after his death, when his holy relics continuously worked wonders.
The monastery was terribly damaged during the World War II, but some ten years ago it was completely restored and returned to the Eparchy of Novgorod as a convent.
You can visit it daily, from 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. by regular city bus No 121 which leaves from the Central Bus Station five times a day. Please be considerate and wear long clothes and cover your head.
ST. GEORGE MONASTERY
The legend has it that St. George monastery was founded in 1030 by Prince Yaroslav the Wise. He was christened as Georgy (Yury, George), and after victorious campaign against the people of chud' he founded the city of Yuriev (today Tartu, Estonia) and built cathedrals in Novgorod and Kiev in the name and to the glory of his heavenly patron. The St. George cathedral in Novgorod was built on the route from the city to the country-side residence of the prince in the Rakomo village, on the shore of the Ilmen Lake. Around the cathedral a monastery of the same name was founded.
ZVERIN MONASTERY OF THE INTERCESSION OF OUR LADY
Zverin convent is first mentioned in a chronicle from 1148, when a thunderbolt hit the church and burned it. «Zverin» means «animal»; the name goes back to the times when this territory was the prince's hunting ground and later a zoo.
The church of the Intercession of the Virgin was named after a religious holiday of Pokrov. In Russian language the word Pokrov means cover, cloak, shroud and at the same time protection, intercession. The icon-painters usually used the image of a cloth or cloak above the Virgin's head as a metaphor, a symbol of the all-embracing kindness and love of Our Lady. The holiday of Intercession is highly honoured, and the church of the Intercession of Our Lady in Zverin convent is appropriately light, festive, radiating especially warm atmosphere and arousing noble thoughts. The services are held regularly in the church.
Churches
ANNUNCIATION CHURCH ON MYACHINO
The church of Annunciation on Myachino Lakes (1179) is located to the south from the city, halfway to St. George monastery. Here in 1170 a monastery was founded by Archbishop Ioann (Ilya) and his brother Gavril (Grigory) to commemorate the miracle of the icon «Our Lady of the Sign».
The stone church was built in 70 days. One of the legends claims that when the money was over, the Virgin herself had sent a richly geared horse with bags full of gold and silver hanging from its saddle, which allowed the constructors to complete the church.
CHURCH OF THE TRANSFIGURATION OF OUR SAVIOUR ON ILYIN STREET
Church of the Transfiguration of Our Saviour on Ilyina street is one of the most ancient and respected temples in Novgorod. The famous icon «Our Lady of the Sign» was kept here, according to the legend. In 1374 a new stone church was erected to replace a wooden one, and the Archbishop himself consecrated it.
The church presents a typical example of Novgorodian construction style of the 14th c. It is quite spacey inside, with its height dominating over its width, and is covered with rich decorations with carvings on the outside.
CHURCH OF PETER AND PAUL IN KOZHEVHIKI
The Church of Peter and Paul in Kozhevniki ("Kozhevniki" means "tanners' district") built in 1406 is one of the finest examples of the 15th c. architecture. The facades of the church are constructed of uneven blocks of limestone and brick, with lots of decorative elements and embellishments. The outside surface of the church was never painted, so today we can see what medieval churches of Novgorod looked like. All icons from the church of Peter and Paul are stored and exhibited in Novgorod Historical Museum.
CHURCH OF SIMEON THE GOD-RECEIVER
One can observe this church from the right bank of the Volkhov river, when standing near St. Anthony monastery or walking along the embankment. Church of Simeon the God-Receiver was built in 1467, on top of a mass burial of many Novgorodians who had died during a plague. It replaced a wooden church dedicated to the same saint and erected in one day as a pledge to stop the great epidemic. From the outside, it is a typical 15th c. church - cubic, one-domed and simple. It looks exactly like many other smaller churches of the period. Inside, however, things are very different. Not only are there two storey, but the paintings on the walls will take your breath right away.
CHURCH OF THE TRANSFIGURATION OF OUR SAVIOUR ON NEREDITSA HILL
This world-wide known church is located on top of a small Nereditsa hill, to the east from Rurik's Gorodische. From the hill one can see entire Novgorod, fields and meadows, the lake and the Volkhov river.
The church was built in 1198, to the order of Prince Yaroslav, after the demise of all his children. This last prince's building looked no different from modest churches of the late 12th c., which were financed by boyars, merchants and commoners. It has the form of a cube and one dome, and its interior is very simple. It was decorated with frescos in 1199, and the paintings gave the closest impression of the system of Russian temple frescos of the time.
CATHEDRAL OF OUR LADY OF THE SIGN
Cathedral of Our Lady of the Sign (1688) is an interesting building, quite well preserved though in a need of restoration. It attracts the eye with its unusual for Novgorod architecture, intricate compositional and decorative elements, more common for Moscow and cities along the Volga river, and especially with its bright paintings interweaved with ornaments (1702). They are quite traditional, but at the same time, comment on their epoch.
CHURCH OF THEODORE STRATILATES ON THE BROOK
Church of Theodore Stratilates on the Brook was founded in 1360 by the governor of Novgorod Simeon Andreevich and completed a year later. It is a classical architectural monument of the second half of the 14th c. and a standard for Novgorodian constructor of a long standing.
The church, welcoming the guests from the direction of Moscow, looks great even today. The restorers have worked hard on its lavish decorations and Gothic ports and windows. The later additions (bell-tower and refectory) make the church look more solid, stable and, somehow, earthly.
VITOSLAVLITSY
A while ago, in the 12th century, there was a village Vitoslavlitsy by the road between Novgorod and St. George Monastery. Nearby were the fields and lands belonging to St. Panteleymon, Arkazhsky, Annunciation and many other smaller monasteries. Today the village and most of these monasteries are gone, but the landscape, including lakes and canals, remained. In the 1960s it was considered attractive enough to found here an open-air museum of wooden architecture. You can visit it from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. in summer and from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. in winter. Monday and Tuesday are days off.
